The return of Champagne

In terms of Christmas-time drinks as a logical progression after vodka I must talk about champagne.  Imagine toasts by the Christmas tree with elegant stemware and gifts opening, champagne is just perfect.  What other better meal in the year than Christmas to take out a a bottle of French sparkling magic? It's the season to treat yourself, have a few exotic foods and toast in style.
I know, in the last 10 years Champagne has not been very popular.  Blame it on the vilification of luxury subsequent the economic crisis, blame it on an increasingly fast paced life that does not facilitate enjoyment, or blame it on fashion back-turning on the 90's.  Whatever the reason I do think that Champagne is ready for a big come back! But please don't drink it because it is the new fad! Drink it because it's delicious.

I'm not going to give you an encyclopedia-like description on Champagne here; just a few brief notes.  It is a French wine - aha! - from the namesake region. The non-vintage ones are complex blends of wines that recreate the typical essence of each marque, brand.  NV Brut Champagne is usually a 2/3 and 1/3, or 3/4 and 1/4 blends of Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs.  Of course you can also find 100% Blanc de Noirs and 100% Blanc de Blancs.

Blanc de Noirs = Chardonnay + Pinot Noir + Pinot Meunier.
Blanc de Blancs = 100% Chardonnay.
The Chardonnay provides delicate joyfulness, the Pinot Noir a more assertive structure and the Pinot Noir a softer and aromatic edge.

Alexis Lichine pointed out in his book on French wines that the "ethereal lightness" of champagne can be found in the Cote de Blancs where champagne is made with mostly Chardonnay grapes.

Contrary to pop culture Champagne should not be served very cold.  If the wine is younger or sweeter (demi-sec) then the temperature should be 6-8 C.  If you are drinking a NV brut then 8-10 C is better and at the champagne house Salon-Delamotte for older and more complex wines they suggest 12 C.
It is better to use a tulip glass or a regular wine glass than a flute if you would like to experience the wine in full.

Depending on your taste you now need to discover your favorite champagne.  I personally prefer the more "ethereal" styles with more Chardonnay.  Laurent Perrier's brut is an example and has a nice lightness that makes it perfect as an aperitif or for a celebration.  If you are having a super special occasion or looking for a nice gift for a wine enthusiast the 1997 Salon is "a sensuality of silk."

Other personal suggestions: Delamotte Brut ("balanced and elegant"), Diebolt-Vallois Prestige Blanc de Blancs ("dramatic intensity") come to mind.

Also underrated are the demi-secs which are sweeter and more playful.  These are great after a meal and used to be more popular when champagne was invented.

A suggestion: if you buy a NV Brut from a major house it will be better after 1 year.  The biggest houses churn out lots of wine and release it when it is still a bit young.  But check your preferred house's website. Some pre-age their wines so they are just right when you buy them.

All the info you might need can be found at http://www.champagne.fr/en

Bon Noel!

"Sipping Vodka" ??

In our life food is definitely a dominant theme - even if you try to ignore it.  It's funny how sometimes food shows up into other realms such as movies, music, art and pop culture.  It could be said that what we eat/drink in part defines us or at least reveals information about us.  If in a hundred years a historian was going to analyze this blog she/he would be able to point out certain things about me only based on the food topics I'm writing on.  An economist might make assumptions about my income and quality of life.

It's from one of this crossovers between drink and music that my post begins.  I have always been interested in hip hop culture and I still listen to a lot of rap music.  Regardless of how polite and correct it might be it is still a very fascinating music genre full of rhythm and inventiveness.  

Listening to the recent and very good King's Landing by Vinny Cha$e - vinnycha$enyc - mixtape preview - I came across a rhyme that captured my attention.  On track 6 of the mixtape, the appropriately titled "Coolin," Vinny talks of "sipping vodka."  As I did not recall that vodka should be sipped I immediately researched the topic. Is the word " sipping" used as slang? The Urban Dictionary defines sipping as: "process of drinking carbonated grape juice and liquid codeine mixed usually while smoking marijuana." It is obviously not a case of slang.  Vinny Cha$e implies that he's drinking so much vodka that it's like sipping it - a constant drinking process.  And the word "sippin" is for sure much more club-cool than drinking. One could not rap to "shooting vodka." It just doesn't sound right.

My quest continued.  Should vodka be taken in shots as I believe or should it be sipped?

From a logical point of view it should be drunk in shots.  Its main characteristic is purity and freshness of taste.  There is no benefit in sipping it.  Vodka is served from the freezer. The drinker is not trying to showcase or taste any subtle flavors.  If that was the case vodka would be served at room temperature.

But besides my experience in Latvia and general knowledge I searched the internet for more validation.

Esquire contains an article that is a bit oxymoronic: the title mentions that vodka should be "sipped with food" but later on it mentions that vodka should be "drunk in little chilled shots alongside little plates." That makes more sense.  Esquire is talking about zakuskis. These are Russian hors d'oeuvres served before a meal.  

I did go on to research the web a bit more and found plenty more evidence of Russian origin to support my statement that vodka should be drunk in shots.  It's important not to fill the glass to the rim and to finish the vodka in one gulp.  Vodka needs to be served chilled - the bottle kept in the freezer.  And make sure to give a toast when having vodka. 

So for this Christmas season instead of an aperitif or white wine why not pair your buffet of amuse bouche and hors d'oeuvres with shots of good quality vodka? 

Final notes:

From my vodka adventure I learned a few more things. 

YORSH: a Russian drink consisting of beer + generous amount of vodka. Don't ask me how it originated.

PICKLE JUICE: preferred Russian hangover cure.

PDO - Kalamata Olive Oil

Here in North America we have a good variety of extra virgin olive oils (EVOO) but local demand prefers lighter and more bland ones.  Growing up in Italy we had nicely "spicy" and flavorful examples from the southern provinces like Molise.  Finding extra virgin olive oil that matches this profile has not been that easy.  The large exporters from Italy like to blend Mediterranean oils from different countries with a golden color and sweet, light and often boring taste.

In recent years supermarkets have gone through a phase of offering more special and expensive, single origin oils.  Undiscerning consumers might think that if the olive oil is $30-$50 for 1 liter it must be good.  This is not always true.  Money pays for something that is rare and special but not necessarily better tasting.

On a recent trip to Milan the Esselunga Supermarket regular line EVOO was strong and flavorful and affordable.  I think that this kind of flavorful oil is only recently getting sold outside of Italy and now Whole Foods sells a 100% Italian EVOO but I still need to try it.

My search stopped when I bought Kalamata EVOO from Greece.  This oil has a dark yellow color leaning towards green, a sweet and fruity flavor with a fresh richness that is difficult to find. The oil is not too acidic or too strong but still super flavorful.  I bought the one marketed by Krinos - see picture.  It's EFFING GOOD!

The good thing about this EVOO is that it is a PDO product - Protected Designation of Origin so in theory the product comes from a specific area and you know what to expect.  If you buy a 100% Italian origin olive oil it does not guarantee much as Italy produces oils of very different flavor profiles.

Kalamata olive oil is from the Messinia prefecture in the south Peloponnese where the city of Kalamata overlooks the sunny Messenian Gulf.  Here the landscape is as warm and beautiful as the olives. At the same latitude of Sicily the climate is optimal for growing olives and the hills allow good aeration of the trees.  The soil is light and calcareous and the terrain forces some growers to use traditional methods of cultivation.  The plots are small and farmers take great care of their trees.  They are very experienced: more than 3,000 years of olive cultivation history.

The olives used are of two varieties Koroneiki and Mastoeidis.  The first is native to Messinia.

Kalamata olive oil stood the "bread test."  Pour some oil on a plate and use a piece of baguette to soak it up.  If the flavors and sweetness of the oil stands out when you eat the bread it means it's a very good olive oil.

This EVOO is quite strong so it's best used for cold food preparations, salads or added to hot dishes at the end of cooking.  You can use it also to pan fry white fish or chicken or on a fresh piece of cheese.

Acorns and Dotorimuk

This is a short post on acorns.  I was recently walking down a boulevard lined with oak tress and noticed a person with a plastic bag that was collecting acorns! Yes like those collected by squirrels.  I needed to investigate more.  What can you do with them? What's their place in the history of food?

The Grandpappy website contains a lot of useful information on the history of acorns and how to collect and process them for eating.  To be brief, the acorn was eaten since the beginning of time by populations living close to oak trees.  Apparently more acorns have been consumed over history than rice and wheat!

Acorns contain many nutritious vitamins and proteins and of course carbohydrates.  They also contain tannins which need to be flushed out before cooking.

It's quite a process to prepare acorns but if you are adventurous enough you can use acorns to make grits, bread, tortillas, and cookies.

However, the person that I saw collecting them was going to make Dotorimuk - acorn jelly.  This is a traditional Korean recipe that is regaining popularity as a health food.  Dotorimuk is commercially available in powder form that is ready for home use.  I'll see if I can find it at the local Korean supermarket.  If my search turns out empty Debbie Lee of the New York Times describes Dotorimuk as "a silk jelly that tasted faintly of chestnuts and artichokes."

Chanterelle - Girolle - Pfifferling - Finferli - Лисички

It's the season! Wet soggy autumn days followed by a few rays of sun. The right temperature and the woods are dotted in yellow.

The mornings start to be a bit foggy. The neighbor is testing the fireplace. The red wine choices are a bit richer and luscious. It's the time of chanterelles.

This is a very delicate and sophisticated mushroom, rich in vitamins and other healthy things to make you feel better. But let's be honest, we eat chanterelles because they are so delicious.

When dried they loose most of their flavor. They need to be as fresh as possible. They keep pretty well in the fridge for a few days in a bowl lined with paper towels to absorb moisture.

We like to do our own mushroom hunting.  This year it's been an amazing one and as the pictures show we were super lucky to find a lot of excellent chanterelles.  We pan seared them somewhat slow to keep them nice and soft, with shallots or onions, butter, black/white pepper and salt.  We added a smidge of white wine et voila - done! Super easy and the best way to showcase that saffron-like sweetness of chanterelles.

They pair nicely with a juicy steak.  Or we cooked them in a savory quiche with leeks and bacon.
A great way to eat them is to sautee them and add them to a cream sauce for nice egg tagliatelle. And don't be shy with the Parmesan.

Re-live van Gogh!

What was Vincent van Gogh thinking when he was painting "Sunset at Montmajour?" Probably not that the painting would turn out to be regarded as a fake. It has recently been identified as an original van Gogh, part of the Arles period.  The landscape portrayed is that of the Montmajour hill with the Montmajour Abbey on the top left corner of the painting.

Perhaps the painting has been regarded as a fake because it is quite mellow and lacks some of the more bright colors often used by Vincent.  "Sunset at Montmajour" has similarities with the "View of Arles with Irises in the Foreground."

Perhaps we should ask ourselves what was van Gogh eating in Arles while he was working on such iconic paintings as "Cafe Terrace at Night?"  I did some research and realized that food was probably not the inspiration of Vincent van Gogh's art.  He lived a frugal life and spent most of his money on art supplies.  It could be said that he sacrificed his enjoyment of food so that we could enjoy more of his art.  In a letter to Theo van Gogh, Vincent explains that he "breakfasted on a piece of dry bread and a glass of beer."  His main choices of foods were dry bread, pickles, potatoes or chestnuts.  Occasionally he would have some fried fish.

From the letters that Vincent wrote I got the impression that his choice of food was due to necessity rather than choice.  He could not afford a full meal very often.  It would be nice if we could travel back in time and have lunch with van Gogh.  Where could we invite him today in Arles?  I suppose somewhere close to the Place du Forum where he painted the Cafe Forum in "Cafe Terrace at Night."

The Hotel Jvles Cesar might be a bit too luxurious.  Yet, Vincent would probably enjoy the nice terrace at hotel's restaurant, the Lou Marques.  It's a quiet and colorful setting, perfect for a nice September lunch.  The set menu is surprisingly affordable at 21 Euros. Some of the choices in the menu would undoubtedly please even a more humble palate:

- Salade de saumon mariné à l’aneth sur un lit de riz de Camargue au basilic
- Filet de plie pané à la noisette, fricassée de topinambours et pomme de terre
- Aumônière aux pommes caramélisées à la cannelle

Another good choice in Arles would be the "Le 16." It has a set menu for 25 Euros which includes dessert.  The menu has traditional offerings in a cozy and rustic setting:
- Oeufs Cocotte au lard fume
- Filet de daurade a l'huile d'olive
- Palette de sorbets

Over lunch we could ask Vincent why in his opinion we now have difficulty ascribing the painting to him.  Or we could ask him if he believes that art has a place on the plate.  Or we could come out with ideas for a menu based on his diet and its ingredient: beer, dry bread, pickles, fried fish, chestnuts and potatoes.  How can these ingredients be revisited and mixed to create a van Gogh menu?

Let's start painting with flavors.

Out!

Yes, all out! In the sunshine, under an umbrella, in the garden, on a patio, out to enjoy the fresh air and summer.

(I've been quite busy and away from the blog but I have not forgotten "Effing Good." As a matter of fact, I've been thinking about it and all sorts of ideas and good food have been spinning inside my head. Unfortunately with little time for the blog I've decided to take a pause instead of churning out bland posts.)

This post is all about outdoor cooking.

PEACH ICED TEA
First, I need to suggest a perfect summer drink that in Italy we grow up with - te freddo alla pesca - peach iced tea.  The supermarket versions are tasty but very sweet and with a standardized flavor.  In June with the first really hot days of summer I started experimenting with my own recipes.  In my first test I pureed 6 white peaches and I added them to concentrated tea, sugar and water.  I then filtered the blend to obtain a lighter infusion.  This iced tea was very fruity and a bit murky (because of the peach residue).  It was good but not clear and as refreshing as I hoped. The peach puree idea was meant to extract as much flavor but I think that it was a bit of an overkill.

The second attempt was more straightforward.  I made a concentrated Keemun black tea (English breakfast is good too) added sugar (about 2 teaspoons per cup - you can play around with the sugar level) and mixed it.  I added enough water to fill the jug I was using and added 2 regular peaches in small slices.  I let everything steep for an hour or two and then filtered the tea and chilled it in the fridge.  This second version of peach iced tea has become my go-to recipe for the summer.  It is easy to make and produces a clear, peachy and super-refreshing iced tea. I love it and I keep a big jug in the fridge to cool down on the hottest moments of the day.

"OUTDOOR COOKERY" James Beard and Helen Evans Brown, Royal Books, 1965.
I recently found a copy of this book in the corner of a dusty old bookstore.  The book has its age but the recipes and suggestions for cooking and eating outdoor are very interesting and current.
I have included below some recipe excerpts from the book.  I think they will spruce up anyone's grilling repertoire.

- SCALLOP SKEWERS: I combined two suggestions from the book.  Dip the scallops in butter and olive oil mixed with parsley and crashed garlic.  Alternate the scallops with olives and grill them.

- LONDON BROIL: fancier term for a flank steak and honestly this steak deserves a fancier name because as the authors write, it is "unbelievably delicious." Procedure: slash any of the fat on the side of the steak, brush with olive oil and black pepper and grill for about 8 minutes.  The key for a delicious London broil is to cook it rare and serve it sliced diagonal and very thin. This steak is best served with French fried onions or a red wine shallot sauce.
Tip of the authors: add salt at the end of grilling so that the meat keeps juicier.

- GREEN TOMATOES SKEWERS: dip the green tomatoes in olive oil with ground ginger and grill. Ingenious.

- PINEAPPLE SKEWERS: dip the pineapple chunks in butter and grill them.  Roll them in macaroon crumbs and flare them with rum.

- BROILED SWEETBREADS: once or twice a year we can all indulge in some sweetbreads.  I do associate them with colder days but this grill recipe sounds perfect for any season. Procedure: first blench the sweetbreads for 15 minutes in salted water with a bit of lemon juice. This step will keep them white and firm.  Cool them in ice water, pat them dry and dip them in 1/2 cup cream + one beaten egg.  Roll them in bread crumbs and grill them at low heat until brown on both side. Serve with a younger red wine or an aromatic white with some depth.

- GRILLED TONGUE TARRAGON: boil the tongue for 1 hour in a pressure cooker or 2-4 hours in a regular pot (the cooking time is related to the size of the piece that you are cooking.)  Make sure to add a bouquet garni, onion, celery and carrot to the water.  Make a paste with: 2 cloves of garlic crushed, 11/2 tbsp dried tarragon, 1 tbsp mustard, 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar or vinegar and 1/2 tbsp salt.  Rub the boiled tongue with half the rub and mix the rest of the rub with 1/2 cup from the cooking water, 3 tbsp melted butter and 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar.  Spit-grill the tongue on medium heat for about 45 minutes until crispy and brown on the outside while basting regularly.

FIGS on the GRILL: do you have a fig tree and an endless supply of figs that you can't give away to friends and relatives because they don't know what they are missing? Perfect, the book suggests to wrap them in bacon and grill them like you would with dates. If you are vegetarian I would suggest grilling them quickly and serving them with fresh quality ricotta cheese and a drizzle of wonderful honey.

I have included recipes for both vegetarians and meat-eaters and I hope that you have found something inspiring. Go out! Get that dusty grill cleaned up and enjoy some relaxed outdoor cooking.

"Sticky pizza"

When I make pizza at home I usually make the typical dough, stretched thin by hand and cooked on the pizza stone.  Recently I was asked to make a thicker pizza.  In the past I have prepared Sicilian-style deep dish pizza and it is very good.  It takes a bit of time.  So I decided to test a new dough based on the typical one but with more water and more flour.  It worked right away and since then I've been enjoying "sticky pizza."

The main idea, besides creating a thicker pizza, was to cut the prep time where possible.  You can make "sticky pizza" dough after work and cook the pizza the same day.

Ingredients for the dough:

4 cups all-purpose flour (500 gr), 2 cups water (500 ml), 3 teaspoons granular yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon EVOO (extra virgin olive oil).

Procedure:

Measure the lukewarm water and put it in a glass bowl.  Add the yeast, EVOO, salt, and the flout two cups at a time, mixing vigorously in between.  This is the demanding procedure: stirring with a wooden spoon the sticky mass quickly until well mixed.  It does not have to be perfect and the dough will look sticky and somewhat uneven.

Let the dough rise covered in a warm area of the kitchen for at least 1.5 hours until nicely risen and puffy.

As shown by the picture above the dough will not be smooth and even like for typical pizza dough.  Do not worry. This dough is ready and will soon turn in wonderful pizza.

Ingredients for basic topping:  1 large can whole tomatoes crushed through a vegetable mill, 10-12 fairly thins slices of your favorite melting cheese, salt, olive oil and oregano. Anchovies and other toppings are optional.

Final steps:  turn the oven to 205-215 F (400-420 C) depending on the oven.  Crush the canned tomatoes through the vegetable mill.  I find this is the best pizza sauce as it remains simple, light and juicy.  If you try to blend the whole tomatoes they will turn orangy and look funny.  If you buy crushed tomatoes they are super dense and need an infusion of water until they become more saucy.  Even then, the sauce will be quite thick.  If that's your preference, go for it.

Take two 12" (30 cm) round pizza pans and oil them. (I know in the pictures you see a rectangular pan - it was a test but I will go back to the round ones - pizza is such a "round" food.) Divide the sticky dough in two.  This part is kind of messy but somewhat fun.  Smooth the dough on the pizza pans with your fingers and the help of the back of a spoon if needed. Cover the pans evenly.  The dough will be sticky and a bit unfriendly but that's the way it is.

Put a few drops of oil on the dough, add a generous amount of tomato sauce, the cheese slices, salt and a nice oregano sprinkling and anchovies, if you like them.  I love them!  If you fancy other toppings go ahead but don't bury the dough too deep.  Before placing the pan in the oven drizzle some olive oil over the pizza (not too much.)

Cook in the oven for about 20 minutes until cooked evenly on the top and underneath. If you use real mozzarella cheese or prefer the crust extra brown add the cheese halfway through the cooking.

Notes:  Coke goes wonderfully with pizza. Otherwise a cold, light beer or a glass of rustic red wine.
"Sticky pizza" is not as glamorous as traditional pizza and the dough is not as fun to work with your hands and stretch.  However, it is quick to make and equally effing good.  It has a nice spongy thickness and softness that is very addictive.  If you make extra it is great cold for lunch.  Try it!

Reflect-ology pt.2

Just a clarification for the previous "Cooking reflect-ology" post:
The 5 ingredients should be seen as a basis for a dish or two or three.  You don't need to make a whole elaborate menu with them. For example a great salad has 5 ingredients.  Or you could make a rice dish with the five ingredients.  Or a fish dish and a vegetable dish using the 5 ingredients. Using the ingredients together in one or two dishes is probably the most fun and simple way to approach reflect-ology.  It's also more realistic for everyday situations when preparing many plates requires too much time.
I can give you an example using the following ingredients:

Vegetable: red cabbage
Starch: brown rice
Fish, meat or legume or eggs or cheese: ling cod (local white fish)
Condiment, herb, spice: fresh red chili peppers
anything you fancy from the supermarket: papaya

The fish can be steamed or baked wrapped in the red cabbage leaves.  It would be served with the brown rice and a fresh salsa made with the papaya and chili peppers.

This is just an example of the many possibilities.  With the same ingredients you could stir fry the chilies, red cabbage and fish and use them to season the brown rice.  The papaya could be caramelized in a pan and used on top of the rice dish for presentation.

You could add other ingredients like butter and olive oil to cook the fish and the rice or to bread the fish, etc...

The ingredients and combinations are limitless!

Kitchen reflect-ology

Sometimes we feel we had enough of the city and work and scream: "I need a holiday!!"  We get sucked right into the routine.  Unfortunately we can't head to some exotic destination whenever we feel like.  Most of the time we can't even sit back and relax in our own home.  We are too stressed, busy and full of schedules and deadlines that we forget to give ourselves a little time-out.  In these situations our eating habits can make things even worst.  We start skipping lunch, eating out too much, cooking the same things all the time or stop cooking altogether.

It's time for some kitchen "REFLECTOLOGY" - stretch, imagine, chop, enjoy.

Try this exercise to get you back into the fun of grocery shopping and cooking for yourself.
Save some time after work for shopping and one hour for cooking.  If you think you need more time, first try the exercise on a Saturday morning.
The idea of this exercise is to break from the rules and habits.  At first it might seem difficult but think about it, don't do what you are used to and feel compelled to, do what you feel like doing.

Let me explain things more clearly.  The exercise has a few simple rules:

- Choose one ingredients from each of the 5 categories below.

- Stray from the ordinary: choose only ingredients that you have not used for a while or that you have never tried.

- Avoid choosing something obscure and totally strange: the ingredients should inspire and create a cooking adventure and discovery - not a nightmare.

These are the 5 categories:
- Vegetable
- Starch
- Fish, meat, legumes, eggs, cheese
- Condiment, herb, spice
- Anything you fancy from the supermarket

Naturally, you can use the basics from your pantry without restrictions: oil, butter, salt, pepper, basic spices, flour, etc.  It's not survival camp!
Don't take too much time shopping.  It should be natural and partly impulsive.  Keep in mind that the ingredients will end up in the same pot or plate.
You have one hour to cook, including 10-15 minutes to research the ingredients and come up with a menu plan.

Adventure and cook. Try new techniques or cooking styles you had ignored or forgot about.  For example if you think steaming is boring - try it!

The point of the exercise is to think about the variety and fun that's ready for you to explore on a daily basis. Cooking can become a necessity but should always be creative and enjoyable.  Don't start thinking that you have to follow the rules every time you cook.  The exercise should be done once in a while when you think you are getting repetitive and need to brainstorm.  It will help you adopt new ingredients, techniques and add "new" to your best recipes and menus.

wine tasting - Passion of Portugal

The label of this wine is a bit plain and the name is cute but somewhat cheesy/cliche' for a wine. These are all adjectives that luckily do not apply to the wine itself.  The wine is a bit like passion: dark colorful purples, seductive softness and warmth.

WINE: 2008 Passion of Portugal, Vinho regional Lisboa, Casa Santos Lima.

Price: $13.10 - $13.99 at local BC stores

Grape varieties: Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barocca, Pinot Noir



Color: dark, intense, very lively to be a 2008 bottle

Nose: generous, spiced vinous berries, hint of barrel ageing

Mouth: well-balanced, luscious, fruity trending to spicy.

About the grapes: Portuguese red wine is usually a great deal because for the price it offers honest wines with rich flavors that always please. This wine is a blend of three outstanding varieties. The Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain) is a noble grape that produces full-bodied, intense wines that can show aromatic, herbal fruit and silky texture. Tinta Barocca is an old Portuguese variety also used for making Porto. It is thin-skinned, dark and colorful, plummy, with sweetness, berry fruit aromas and good ageing potential like Tinta Roriz. Pinot Noir (probably the smaller percentage used in this blend) is an elegant, smooth floral/fruity grape not usually associated with Portugal. "Passion of Portugal" combines these varieties wonderfully creating a wine that has the color and sweetness of Tinta Barocca, the intense herbal fruit of Tinta Roriz and the balance of Pinot Noir. If sometimes Portuguese wines at this price point can be a bit 'winy" and angular, this one is silky and rich.

Soil and region: the vineyards are in Alenquer, not far from Lisboa and the ocean.  The vines are grown on clay and limestone rolling hills. Until 2009 the Lisboa region used to be called Estremadura. The Alenquer area is a bit warmer and less wet and can produce very good wines.

We really liked Passion of Portugal for its welcoming warmth and lusciousness and would suggest pairing it with roasted eggplant, grilled lamb or as a party ice breaker with nibbles.

Ageing potential: the wine has the grape variety pedigree, color and intensity to be aged for a couple more years but don't overdo it.

Notes: according to the producer the wine won various awards (for the 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages.)

 

Tomato debate

I know a couple of people that don't like tomatoes -weird I know. But taste is different for all.
You could say as a general statement that tomatoes are the most popular vegetable/fruit.  They are easy to prepare, good for you and quite versatile. Here in Canada due to the cold climate and short summer they cannot be grown very easily.  for most of the year we need to rely on greenhouses.
I ask myself: is it more energy efficient to grow a tomato in a greenhouse here locally or to use the energy from the sun to grow tomatoes in California and Mexico and then transporting them all the way here?  I could not find a clear answer.  A similar research from Sweden found out that growing tomatoes in Spain for sale in Sweden needed less energy use than a local greenhouse.  However Canada and California/Mexico are much further apart than Spain and Sweden.  You can find more info about this study at http://www.worldwatch.org/node/6064

Other things to consider are the lower use of pesticides in greenhouses and possible higher water needs to grow vegetables in more arid places.

 It's a bit of a dilemma.  I would suggest to limit your environmental footprint by eating more tomatoes in the summer months when local tomatoes are available. If you have a sunny spot on your balcony or garden you can grow  tomatoes easily.  For us here in British Columbia tomatoes are growable if a small plant is purchased in early May and placed outdoor with lots of rich soil under a homemade greenhouse - a tight clear plastic screen will suffice.  Your home-grown tomatoes will show you what a good tomato should taste like. It is not worth to buy bland watery tomatoes in the cold months.

We should enjoy food and prepare it with care but also remember that it comes from somewhere and that within the scope of "reasonable" we should try to buy food that is safe to eat, grow and transport.

I personally prefer regular field tomatoes grown in fields.  I find they have a more solid texture and usually better flavor.  If I buy local greenhouse tomatoes it's the sweet grape tomatoes.
What do you think or know about the energy-efficiency of tomato growing? Feedback is very welcome!

Asparagus time

It's the awakening of things (at least here in British Columbia)
         It's springtime and the air is getting slightly warm - sun shines through the clouds a bit more often.
And the local supermarket flyers are bombarding us with big giant "asparagus sale" signs! Annoying? Maybe - yes - sure.  But where they come from (mostly Mexico or USA) those asparagus on sale are fresh in season  and delicious!
   The other day I had some - quite thick, soft, flavorful, super green gems - so good!  If you think asparagus is a snobby and expensive food now it's the time to prove yourself wrong.  Go grab a bunch right now.  The asparagus will prove fantastic at the first garden/patio outdoor luncheon of the year.  It will be the protagonist together with a nice Pinot blanc.  Have crisp white linen, a fresh baguette and a chevre together with the asparagus and you are set.  In this case I would suggest cooking the asparagus in salted boiling water until tender but not soft - otherwise they will absorb too much water and loose texture.  Drain the asparagus and let them cool on a plate.  I like them best with a simple lemon-olive oil vinaigrette and a bit of black pepper.  Or you could make a mayo and that would be another wonderful match.  This is super basic but always very good.  Tip: at this time of the season the asparagus are very tender so there is no need to cut too much off the stalks and no need to peel them.

Another suggestion is to pair the asparagus cooked as mentioned above with other vegetables in a nice salad.  This spring I'm keeping in mind Provence as a theme for menus - trying to steer away from cliches and creating plates take hints from that region.  I suggest a grilled eggplant and asparagus salad with pistou and citrus dressing.  It's super easy.  Grill the eggplant cut in medium-thickness slices on your bbq or stove top griddle: give them nice marks and make sure they are tender.  Prepare a pistou: a blend of basil leaves, a bit of garlic, olive oil, salt&pepper, and a few drops of lime/lemon juice - typical of Provence.  Cook the asparagus as above and wash some romaine lettuce leaves.  Prepare a citrus olive oil dressing (tip: add a bit of sugar in the dressing to bring out the lemon essence.)  Assembly: place the lettuce leaves whole on a flat plate; toss the eggplant in the pistou and create a circle of eggplant slices in the center and top with the asparagus. Finally, drizzle the asparagus and lettuce with the citrus dressing - add cracked pepper if you like it.  You will be amazed. The usually assertive flavors of the eggplant and asparagus don't clash but are brought together by the citrus and basil undertones - magnifique!

With some of the same ingredients you can whip up a light and elegant asparagus risotto for a nice dinner.  Make a vegetable broth with half a carrot, half celery stalk, the asparagus stalks cut off, and a small piece of onion.  Use olive oil to sweat some white onion - add the pieces of asparagus and proceed like you would for a risotto - keep it vegetarian, light and clean tasting.  Add a few drops of lime juice instead of wine, add minimal amounts of cheese at the end, no pepper and finish off with a thin julienne of basil! Risotto made this way is spring-ready and quite different from the richer versions we crave on cold, rainy winter days.

Interesting approach:  at the Eden Roc in Ascona, chef Rolf Krapf's spring menu (great menus!) proposes asparagus perfumed with elder flower.  Wow - would love to try but not sure where to get elder flowers here.  I will see.

Welcome to spring!

Mussel Fest!

What a great way to celebrate the almost ending shellfish season!  You can enjoy fruits de mer all year round but they are really best between September and April, especially in the Winter months.
And you really can't beat the small old fishing town charm of Coupeville where the festival takes place.  It's a simple and well organized event with the town's restaurants and mussel farm (Penn Cove Shellfish) getting together to prepare mussels in a variety of ways, one better than the other.  There's local beer, rustic bread to soak up all the flavors of the mussels, live music, sunshine and a great laid back vibe.

Of course the superstars were the super fresh and delicate mussels and the aroma of shallots + butter + wine all around you.
One place in town served them with a concasse of tomatoes and fresh basil.  Another place had an equal winner: jalapeno & green grapes. Effing good!

I know mussels are not for everyone.  As a kid I did not trust them because of their soft and weird appearance.  But one bite was all that I needed to be convinced.  It's one of those simple foods that need only a nudge of seasoning to turn into something much more complex.  Make sure they are fresh! There's nothing worst than a dead mussel.  Any mussels that are open before being cooked or that refuse to open once cooked should be tossed.  If you see a semi-open one and are not sure just smell it and you will know if it is not edible.

The festival is every year at the beginning of March in Coupeville, on the Washington coast above Seattle. It's easy to reach through a scenic detour from highway 5.
It's great.  You can buy a plate of mussels right on the street from the various restaurant stands.  I'll be back - can't wait!

TIP - Did you know that if you are in Brussels (one of the capitals of mussels) you can find outstanding moules frites right in the Grand Place? At a decent price (20 euros for 1kg mussels + fries)! In a place that is like a cave? Yes, at the Cave du Roy - http://www.caveduroy.com  The place is a bit cramped but what an effing atmosphere and mussels!  But more on Brussels later on - such a gastronomical city.

short note

A note on the word "gourmand:" it does sound a bit snobby and outdated but according to the Larousse Gastronomique it is the correct one to use for people interested in g-astronomy.  I prefer the word gastronome and the two are very similar.
The L. Gastronomique describes it nicely: "Such gourmandise orders with discernment, supervises with wisdom, savours with enthusiasm, judges with profundity."  It's all about approaching, tasting and enjoying food with style, moderation and in an educated fashion.
Everyone in love with food should keep in mind the quote above and strive to treat food and the people that produce and prepare it with the respect they deserve.  With humble humility.

Enough about "foodie" - I don't know what it is or means and perhaps it means nothing but when I hear that word I think about fad, about appropriation and about vague.  It definitely took over and as a result it has become a word that is convenient to use.  I won't use it.

G-Astronomy

What's the topic of this blog? G-Astronomy

What do I mean by that? Simply put: "good eating" is bigger than the term gastronomy.

According to the online Oxford dictionary, Gastronomy is "the practice or art of choosing, cooking, and eating good food." Don't you agree? The keywords sum it up nicely: ART! CHOOSING, COOKING, EATING (& DRINKING)

According to the online Oxford dictionary, Astronomy is "the branch of science which deals with celestial objects, space, and the physical universe as a whole" and the word comes from the Greek, astronomos which means "star arranging."  

Good eating is a bit like arranging stars and creating our universe of taste.  We take our telescope and look for unexplored galaxies of flavors. Sometimes we travel for a long time until we reach a distant planet we never thought existed. Other times we have a great dinner experience that feels like a warp drive. Have you ever ended dinner thinking: "that was intergalactic?"

Food is a topic that is as vast as space and equally idealized.  A great food experience is a bit like a science fiction story - something was so good we can hardly believe it was real.

So strap on your helmet, get into your flying pan and delve into g-astronomy.

Intro

BACKGROUND
First, I should introduce myself.  I grew up in Italy and later moved to Canada.  I went to hotel school in Italy for 2 years and then took a cooking program in Vancouver, Canada.  Cooking is my big passion but not my current profession.  I did work as a cook for a short time.
I've always been interested in food and moving abroad helped me expand my food horizons: understanding North American, Mexican, Japanese and Chinese food.  I have more of a traditional French/Italian approach to food and cooking.

TITLE
Liking food is not the same as understanding good food.  Most food lovers will have that epiphany when they realize oh yes this food is "effing good!" It's a special experience and has nothing to do with expensive and elaborate food.  It's about good food and good times.  The term is borrowed by a cooking school classmate and good friend.  His enthusiasm towards life and food was contagious and that's what this blog will try to accomplish.

DISCLAIMER!
Food and pleasure are very subjective, cultural and personal.  The blog will at times be dictatorial and politically incorrect in its ideas and like all liberal thought it will for sure give rise to discussions and hopefully induce you - the reader - to more thinking and great ideas.

GOAL
I'm not trying to make the next "foodie", picture perfect blog but something that talks about various traits of food in life: its experience, psychology, origin, history and much more.
I hope I will be able to entertain, inspire and keep things simple but with a personal identity. English is my second language  I've been writing and speaking in English for a long time but I apologize in advance if here and there you will find some mistakes.  It happens!

Enjoy!