Tuesday, December 24, 2013

The return of Champagne

In terms of Christmas-time drinks as a logical progression after vodka I must talk about champagne.  Imagine toasts by the Christmas tree with elegant stemware and gifts opening, champagne is just perfect.  What other better meal in the year than Christmas to take out a a bottle of French sparkling magic? It's the season to treat yourself, have a few exotic foods and toast in style.
I know, in the last 10 years Champagne has not been very popular.  Blame it on the vilification of luxury subsequent the economic crisis, blame it on an increasingly fast paced life that does not facilitate enjoyment, or blame it on fashion back-turning on the 90's.  Whatever the reason I do think that Champagne is ready for a big come back! But please don't drink it because it is the new fad! Drink it because it's delicious.

I'm not going to give you an encyclopedia-like description on Champagne here; just a few brief notes.  It is a French wine - aha! - from the namesake region. The non-vintage ones are complex blends of wines that recreate the typical essence of each marque, brand.  NV Brut Champagne is usually a 2/3 and 1/3, or 3/4 and 1/4 blends of Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs.  Of course you can also find 100% Blanc de Noirs and 100% Blanc de Blancs.

Blanc de Noirs = Chardonnay + Pinot Noir + Pinot Meunier.
Blanc de Blancs = 100% Chardonnay.
The Chardonnay provides delicate joyfulness, the Pinot Noir a more assertive structure and the Pinot Noir a softer and aromatic edge.

Alexis Lichine pointed out in his book on French wines that the "ethereal lightness" of champagne can be found in the Cote de Blancs where champagne is made with mostly Chardonnay grapes.

Contrary to pop culture Champagne should not be served very cold.  If the wine is younger or sweeter (demi-sec) then the temperature should be 6-8 C.  If you are drinking a NV brut then 8-10 C is better and at the champagne house Salon-Delamotte for older and more complex wines they suggest 12 C.
It is better to use a tulip glass or a regular wine glass than a flute if you would like to experience the wine in full.

Depending on your taste you now need to discover your favorite champagne.  I personally prefer the more "ethereal" styles with more Chardonnay.  Laurent Perrier's brut is an example and has a nice lightness that makes it perfect as an aperitif or for a celebration.  If you are having a super special occasion or looking for a nice gift for a wine enthusiast the 1997 Salon is "a sensuality of silk."

Other personal suggestions: Delamotte Brut ("balanced and elegant"), Diebolt-Vallois Prestige Blanc de Blancs ("dramatic intensity") come to mind.

Also underrated are the demi-secs which are sweeter and more playful.  These are great after a meal and used to be more popular when champagne was invented.

A suggestion: if you buy a NV Brut from a major house it will be better after 1 year.  The biggest houses churn out lots of wine and release it when it is still a bit young.  But check your preferred house's website. Some pre-age their wines so they are just right when you buy them.

All the info you might need can be found at http://www.champagne.fr/en

Bon Noel!


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