Re-live van Gogh!

What was Vincent van Gogh thinking when he was painting "Sunset at Montmajour?" Probably not that the painting would turn out to be regarded as a fake. It has recently been identified as an original van Gogh, part of the Arles period.  The landscape portrayed is that of the Montmajour hill with the Montmajour Abbey on the top left corner of the painting.

Perhaps the painting has been regarded as a fake because it is quite mellow and lacks some of the more bright colors often used by Vincent.  "Sunset at Montmajour" has similarities with the "View of Arles with Irises in the Foreground."

Perhaps we should ask ourselves what was van Gogh eating in Arles while he was working on such iconic paintings as "Cafe Terrace at Night?"  I did some research and realized that food was probably not the inspiration of Vincent van Gogh's art.  He lived a frugal life and spent most of his money on art supplies.  It could be said that he sacrificed his enjoyment of food so that we could enjoy more of his art.  In a letter to Theo van Gogh, Vincent explains that he "breakfasted on a piece of dry bread and a glass of beer."  His main choices of foods were dry bread, pickles, potatoes or chestnuts.  Occasionally he would have some fried fish.

From the letters that Vincent wrote I got the impression that his choice of food was due to necessity rather than choice.  He could not afford a full meal very often.  It would be nice if we could travel back in time and have lunch with van Gogh.  Where could we invite him today in Arles?  I suppose somewhere close to the Place du Forum where he painted the Cafe Forum in "Cafe Terrace at Night."

The Hotel Jvles Cesar might be a bit too luxurious.  Yet, Vincent would probably enjoy the nice terrace at hotel's restaurant, the Lou Marques.  It's a quiet and colorful setting, perfect for a nice September lunch.  The set menu is surprisingly affordable at 21 Euros. Some of the choices in the menu would undoubtedly please even a more humble palate:

- Salade de saumon mariné à l’aneth sur un lit de riz de Camargue au basilic
- Filet de plie pané à la noisette, fricassée de topinambours et pomme de terre
- Aumônière aux pommes caramélisées à la cannelle

Another good choice in Arles would be the "Le 16." It has a set menu for 25 Euros which includes dessert.  The menu has traditional offerings in a cozy and rustic setting:
- Oeufs Cocotte au lard fume
- Filet de daurade a l'huile d'olive
- Palette de sorbets

Over lunch we could ask Vincent why in his opinion we now have difficulty ascribing the painting to him.  Or we could ask him if he believes that art has a place on the plate.  Or we could come out with ideas for a menu based on his diet and its ingredient: beer, dry bread, pickles, fried fish, chestnuts and potatoes.  How can these ingredients be revisited and mixed to create a van Gogh menu?

Let's start painting with flavors.

Out!

Yes, all out! In the sunshine, under an umbrella, in the garden, on a patio, out to enjoy the fresh air and summer.

(I've been quite busy and away from the blog but I have not forgotten "Effing Good." As a matter of fact, I've been thinking about it and all sorts of ideas and good food have been spinning inside my head. Unfortunately with little time for the blog I've decided to take a pause instead of churning out bland posts.)

This post is all about outdoor cooking.

PEACH ICED TEA
First, I need to suggest a perfect summer drink that in Italy we grow up with - te freddo alla pesca - peach iced tea.  The supermarket versions are tasty but very sweet and with a standardized flavor.  In June with the first really hot days of summer I started experimenting with my own recipes.  In my first test I pureed 6 white peaches and I added them to concentrated tea, sugar and water.  I then filtered the blend to obtain a lighter infusion.  This iced tea was very fruity and a bit murky (because of the peach residue).  It was good but not clear and as refreshing as I hoped. The peach puree idea was meant to extract as much flavor but I think that it was a bit of an overkill.

The second attempt was more straightforward.  I made a concentrated Keemun black tea (English breakfast is good too) added sugar (about 2 teaspoons per cup - you can play around with the sugar level) and mixed it.  I added enough water to fill the jug I was using and added 2 regular peaches in small slices.  I let everything steep for an hour or two and then filtered the tea and chilled it in the fridge.  This second version of peach iced tea has become my go-to recipe for the summer.  It is easy to make and produces a clear, peachy and super-refreshing iced tea. I love it and I keep a big jug in the fridge to cool down on the hottest moments of the day.

"OUTDOOR COOKERY" James Beard and Helen Evans Brown, Royal Books, 1965.
I recently found a copy of this book in the corner of a dusty old bookstore.  The book has its age but the recipes and suggestions for cooking and eating outdoor are very interesting and current.
I have included below some recipe excerpts from the book.  I think they will spruce up anyone's grilling repertoire.

- SCALLOP SKEWERS: I combined two suggestions from the book.  Dip the scallops in butter and olive oil mixed with parsley and crashed garlic.  Alternate the scallops with olives and grill them.

- LONDON BROIL: fancier term for a flank steak and honestly this steak deserves a fancier name because as the authors write, it is "unbelievably delicious." Procedure: slash any of the fat on the side of the steak, brush with olive oil and black pepper and grill for about 8 minutes.  The key for a delicious London broil is to cook it rare and serve it sliced diagonal and very thin. This steak is best served with French fried onions or a red wine shallot sauce.
Tip of the authors: add salt at the end of grilling so that the meat keeps juicier.

- GREEN TOMATOES SKEWERS: dip the green tomatoes in olive oil with ground ginger and grill. Ingenious.

- PINEAPPLE SKEWERS: dip the pineapple chunks in butter and grill them.  Roll them in macaroon crumbs and flare them with rum.

- BROILED SWEETBREADS: once or twice a year we can all indulge in some sweetbreads.  I do associate them with colder days but this grill recipe sounds perfect for any season. Procedure: first blench the sweetbreads for 15 minutes in salted water with a bit of lemon juice. This step will keep them white and firm.  Cool them in ice water, pat them dry and dip them in 1/2 cup cream + one beaten egg.  Roll them in bread crumbs and grill them at low heat until brown on both side. Serve with a younger red wine or an aromatic white with some depth.

- GRILLED TONGUE TARRAGON: boil the tongue for 1 hour in a pressure cooker or 2-4 hours in a regular pot (the cooking time is related to the size of the piece that you are cooking.)  Make sure to add a bouquet garni, onion, celery and carrot to the water.  Make a paste with: 2 cloves of garlic crushed, 11/2 tbsp dried tarragon, 1 tbsp mustard, 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar or vinegar and 1/2 tbsp salt.  Rub the boiled tongue with half the rub and mix the rest of the rub with 1/2 cup from the cooking water, 3 tbsp melted butter and 1 tbsp tarragon vinegar.  Spit-grill the tongue on medium heat for about 45 minutes until crispy and brown on the outside while basting regularly.

FIGS on the GRILL: do you have a fig tree and an endless supply of figs that you can't give away to friends and relatives because they don't know what they are missing? Perfect, the book suggests to wrap them in bacon and grill them like you would with dates. If you are vegetarian I would suggest grilling them quickly and serving them with fresh quality ricotta cheese and a drizzle of wonderful honey.

I have included recipes for both vegetarians and meat-eaters and I hope that you have found something inspiring. Go out! Get that dusty grill cleaned up and enjoy some relaxed outdoor cooking.

"Sticky pizza"

When I make pizza at home I usually make the typical dough, stretched thin by hand and cooked on the pizza stone.  Recently I was asked to make a thicker pizza.  In the past I have prepared Sicilian-style deep dish pizza and it is very good.  It takes a bit of time.  So I decided to test a new dough based on the typical one but with more water and more flour.  It worked right away and since then I've been enjoying "sticky pizza."

The main idea, besides creating a thicker pizza, was to cut the prep time where possible.  You can make "sticky pizza" dough after work and cook the pizza the same day.

Ingredients for the dough:

4 cups all-purpose flour (500 gr), 2 cups water (500 ml), 3 teaspoons granular yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon EVOO (extra virgin olive oil).

Procedure:

Measure the lukewarm water and put it in a glass bowl.  Add the yeast, EVOO, salt, and the flout two cups at a time, mixing vigorously in between.  This is the demanding procedure: stirring with a wooden spoon the sticky mass quickly until well mixed.  It does not have to be perfect and the dough will look sticky and somewhat uneven.

Let the dough rise covered in a warm area of the kitchen for at least 1.5 hours until nicely risen and puffy.

As shown by the picture above the dough will not be smooth and even like for typical pizza dough.  Do not worry. This dough is ready and will soon turn in wonderful pizza.

Ingredients for basic topping:  1 large can whole tomatoes crushed through a vegetable mill, 10-12 fairly thins slices of your favorite melting cheese, salt, olive oil and oregano. Anchovies and other toppings are optional.

Final steps:  turn the oven to 205-215 F (400-420 C) depending on the oven.  Crush the canned tomatoes through the vegetable mill.  I find this is the best pizza sauce as it remains simple, light and juicy.  If you try to blend the whole tomatoes they will turn orangy and look funny.  If you buy crushed tomatoes they are super dense and need an infusion of water until they become more saucy.  Even then, the sauce will be quite thick.  If that's your preference, go for it.

Take two 12" (30 cm) round pizza pans and oil them. (I know in the pictures you see a rectangular pan - it was a test but I will go back to the round ones - pizza is such a "round" food.) Divide the sticky dough in two.  This part is kind of messy but somewhat fun.  Smooth the dough on the pizza pans with your fingers and the help of the back of a spoon if needed. Cover the pans evenly.  The dough will be sticky and a bit unfriendly but that's the way it is.

Put a few drops of oil on the dough, add a generous amount of tomato sauce, the cheese slices, salt and a nice oregano sprinkling and anchovies, if you like them.  I love them!  If you fancy other toppings go ahead but don't bury the dough too deep.  Before placing the pan in the oven drizzle some olive oil over the pizza (not too much.)

Cook in the oven for about 20 minutes until cooked evenly on the top and underneath. If you use real mozzarella cheese or prefer the crust extra brown add the cheese halfway through the cooking.

Notes:  Coke goes wonderfully with pizza. Otherwise a cold, light beer or a glass of rustic red wine.
"Sticky pizza" is not as glamorous as traditional pizza and the dough is not as fun to work with your hands and stretch.  However, it is quick to make and equally effing good.  It has a nice spongy thickness and softness that is very addictive.  If you make extra it is great cold for lunch.  Try it!

Reflect-ology pt.2

Just a clarification for the previous "Cooking reflect-ology" post:
The 5 ingredients should be seen as a basis for a dish or two or three.  You don't need to make a whole elaborate menu with them. For example a great salad has 5 ingredients.  Or you could make a rice dish with the five ingredients.  Or a fish dish and a vegetable dish using the 5 ingredients. Using the ingredients together in one or two dishes is probably the most fun and simple way to approach reflect-ology.  It's also more realistic for everyday situations when preparing many plates requires too much time.
I can give you an example using the following ingredients:

Vegetable: red cabbage
Starch: brown rice
Fish, meat or legume or eggs or cheese: ling cod (local white fish)
Condiment, herb, spice: fresh red chili peppers
anything you fancy from the supermarket: papaya

The fish can be steamed or baked wrapped in the red cabbage leaves.  It would be served with the brown rice and a fresh salsa made with the papaya and chili peppers.

This is just an example of the many possibilities.  With the same ingredients you could stir fry the chilies, red cabbage and fish and use them to season the brown rice.  The papaya could be caramelized in a pan and used on top of the rice dish for presentation.

You could add other ingredients like butter and olive oil to cook the fish and the rice or to bread the fish, etc...

The ingredients and combinations are limitless!

Kitchen reflect-ology

Sometimes we feel we had enough of the city and work and scream: "I need a holiday!!"  We get sucked right into the routine.  Unfortunately we can't head to some exotic destination whenever we feel like.  Most of the time we can't even sit back and relax in our own home.  We are too stressed, busy and full of schedules and deadlines that we forget to give ourselves a little time-out.  In these situations our eating habits can make things even worst.  We start skipping lunch, eating out too much, cooking the same things all the time or stop cooking altogether.

It's time for some kitchen "REFLECTOLOGY" - stretch, imagine, chop, enjoy.

Try this exercise to get you back into the fun of grocery shopping and cooking for yourself.
Save some time after work for shopping and one hour for cooking.  If you think you need more time, first try the exercise on a Saturday morning.
The idea of this exercise is to break from the rules and habits.  At first it might seem difficult but think about it, don't do what you are used to and feel compelled to, do what you feel like doing.

Let me explain things more clearly.  The exercise has a few simple rules:

- Choose one ingredients from each of the 5 categories below.

- Stray from the ordinary: choose only ingredients that you have not used for a while or that you have never tried.

- Avoid choosing something obscure and totally strange: the ingredients should inspire and create a cooking adventure and discovery - not a nightmare.

These are the 5 categories:
- Vegetable
- Starch
- Fish, meat, legumes, eggs, cheese
- Condiment, herb, spice
- Anything you fancy from the supermarket

Naturally, you can use the basics from your pantry without restrictions: oil, butter, salt, pepper, basic spices, flour, etc.  It's not survival camp!
Don't take too much time shopping.  It should be natural and partly impulsive.  Keep in mind that the ingredients will end up in the same pot or plate.
You have one hour to cook, including 10-15 minutes to research the ingredients and come up with a menu plan.

Adventure and cook. Try new techniques or cooking styles you had ignored or forgot about.  For example if you think steaming is boring - try it!

The point of the exercise is to think about the variety and fun that's ready for you to explore on a daily basis. Cooking can become a necessity but should always be creative and enjoyable.  Don't start thinking that you have to follow the rules every time you cook.  The exercise should be done once in a while when you think you are getting repetitive and need to brainstorm.  It will help you adopt new ingredients, techniques and add "new" to your best recipes and menus.

wine tasting - Passion of Portugal

The label of this wine is a bit plain and the name is cute but somewhat cheesy/cliche' for a wine. These are all adjectives that luckily do not apply to the wine itself.  The wine is a bit like passion: dark colorful purples, seductive softness and warmth.

WINE: 2008 Passion of Portugal, Vinho regional Lisboa, Casa Santos Lima.

Price: $13.10 - $13.99 at local BC stores

Grape varieties: Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barocca, Pinot Noir



Color: dark, intense, very lively to be a 2008 bottle

Nose: generous, spiced vinous berries, hint of barrel ageing

Mouth: well-balanced, luscious, fruity trending to spicy.

About the grapes: Portuguese red wine is usually a great deal because for the price it offers honest wines with rich flavors that always please. This wine is a blend of three outstanding varieties. The Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain) is a noble grape that produces full-bodied, intense wines that can show aromatic, herbal fruit and silky texture. Tinta Barocca is an old Portuguese variety also used for making Porto. It is thin-skinned, dark and colorful, plummy, with sweetness, berry fruit aromas and good ageing potential like Tinta Roriz. Pinot Noir (probably the smaller percentage used in this blend) is an elegant, smooth floral/fruity grape not usually associated with Portugal. "Passion of Portugal" combines these varieties wonderfully creating a wine that has the color and sweetness of Tinta Barocca, the intense herbal fruit of Tinta Roriz and the balance of Pinot Noir. If sometimes Portuguese wines at this price point can be a bit 'winy" and angular, this one is silky and rich.

Soil and region: the vineyards are in Alenquer, not far from Lisboa and the ocean.  The vines are grown on clay and limestone rolling hills. Until 2009 the Lisboa region used to be called Estremadura. The Alenquer area is a bit warmer and less wet and can produce very good wines.

We really liked Passion of Portugal for its welcoming warmth and lusciousness and would suggest pairing it with roasted eggplant, grilled lamb or as a party ice breaker with nibbles.

Ageing potential: the wine has the grape variety pedigree, color and intensity to be aged for a couple more years but don't overdo it.

Notes: according to the producer the wine won various awards (for the 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages.)

 

Tomato debate

I know a couple of people that don't like tomatoes -weird I know. But taste is different for all.
You could say as a general statement that tomatoes are the most popular vegetable/fruit.  They are easy to prepare, good for you and quite versatile. Here in Canada due to the cold climate and short summer they cannot be grown very easily.  for most of the year we need to rely on greenhouses.
I ask myself: is it more energy efficient to grow a tomato in a greenhouse here locally or to use the energy from the sun to grow tomatoes in California and Mexico and then transporting them all the way here?  I could not find a clear answer.  A similar research from Sweden found out that growing tomatoes in Spain for sale in Sweden needed less energy use than a local greenhouse.  However Canada and California/Mexico are much further apart than Spain and Sweden.  You can find more info about this study at http://www.worldwatch.org/node/6064

Other things to consider are the lower use of pesticides in greenhouses and possible higher water needs to grow vegetables in more arid places.

 It's a bit of a dilemma.  I would suggest to limit your environmental footprint by eating more tomatoes in the summer months when local tomatoes are available. If you have a sunny spot on your balcony or garden you can grow  tomatoes easily.  For us here in British Columbia tomatoes are growable if a small plant is purchased in early May and placed outdoor with lots of rich soil under a homemade greenhouse - a tight clear plastic screen will suffice.  Your home-grown tomatoes will show you what a good tomato should taste like. It is not worth to buy bland watery tomatoes in the cold months.

We should enjoy food and prepare it with care but also remember that it comes from somewhere and that within the scope of "reasonable" we should try to buy food that is safe to eat, grow and transport.

I personally prefer regular field tomatoes grown in fields.  I find they have a more solid texture and usually better flavor.  If I buy local greenhouse tomatoes it's the sweet grape tomatoes.
What do you think or know about the energy-efficiency of tomato growing? Feedback is very welcome!