Tuesday, December 24, 2013

The return of Champagne

In terms of Christmas-time drinks as a logical progression after vodka I must talk about champagne.  Imagine toasts by the Christmas tree with elegant stemware and gifts opening, champagne is just perfect.  What other better meal in the year than Christmas to take out a a bottle of French sparkling magic? It's the season to treat yourself, have a few exotic foods and toast in style.
I know, in the last 10 years Champagne has not been very popular.  Blame it on the vilification of luxury subsequent the economic crisis, blame it on an increasingly fast paced life that does not facilitate enjoyment, or blame it on fashion back-turning on the 90's.  Whatever the reason I do think that Champagne is ready for a big come back! But please don't drink it because it is the new fad! Drink it because it's delicious.

I'm not going to give you an encyclopedia-like description on Champagne here; just a few brief notes.  It is a French wine - aha! - from the namesake region. The non-vintage ones are complex blends of wines that recreate the typical essence of each marque, brand.  NV Brut Champagne is usually a 2/3 and 1/3, or 3/4 and 1/4 blends of Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs.  Of course you can also find 100% Blanc de Noirs and 100% Blanc de Blancs.

Blanc de Noirs = Chardonnay + Pinot Noir + Pinot Meunier.
Blanc de Blancs = 100% Chardonnay.
The Chardonnay provides delicate joyfulness, the Pinot Noir a more assertive structure and the Pinot Noir a softer and aromatic edge.

Alexis Lichine pointed out in his book on French wines that the "ethereal lightness" of champagne can be found in the Cote de Blancs where champagne is made with mostly Chardonnay grapes.

Contrary to pop culture Champagne should not be served very cold.  If the wine is younger or sweeter (demi-sec) then the temperature should be 6-8 C.  If you are drinking a NV brut then 8-10 C is better and at the champagne house Salon-Delamotte for older and more complex wines they suggest 12 C.
It is better to use a tulip glass or a regular wine glass than a flute if you would like to experience the wine in full.

Depending on your taste you now need to discover your favorite champagne.  I personally prefer the more "ethereal" styles with more Chardonnay.  Laurent Perrier's brut is an example and has a nice lightness that makes it perfect as an aperitif or for a celebration.  If you are having a super special occasion or looking for a nice gift for a wine enthusiast the 1997 Salon is "a sensuality of silk."

Other personal suggestions: Delamotte Brut ("balanced and elegant"), Diebolt-Vallois Prestige Blanc de Blancs ("dramatic intensity") come to mind.

Also underrated are the demi-secs which are sweeter and more playful.  These are great after a meal and used to be more popular when champagne was invented.

A suggestion: if you buy a NV Brut from a major house it will be better after 1 year.  The biggest houses churn out lots of wine and release it when it is still a bit young.  But check your preferred house's website. Some pre-age their wines so they are just right when you buy them.

All the info you might need can be found at http://www.champagne.fr/en

Bon Noel!


Monday, December 23, 2013

"Sipping Vodka" ??

In our life food is definitely a dominant theme - even if you try to ignore it.  It's funny how sometimes food shows up into other realms such as movies, music, art and pop culture.  It could be said that what we eat/drink in part defines us or at least reveals information about us.  If in a hundred years a historian was going to analyze this blog she/he would be able to point out certain things about me only based on the food topics I'm writing on.  An economist might make assumptions about my income and quality of life.



It's from one of this crossovers between drink and music that my post begins.  I have always been interested in hip hop culture and I still listen to a lot of rap music.  Regardless of how polite and correct it might be it is still a very fascinating music genre full of rhythm and inventiveness.  

Listening to the recent and very good King's Landing by Vinny Cha$e - vinnycha$enyc - mixtape preview - I came across a rhyme that captured my attention.  On track 6 of the mixtape, the appropriately titled "Coolin," Vinny talks of "sipping vodka."  As I did not recall that vodka should be sipped I immediately researched the topic. Is the word " sipping" used as slang? The Urban Dictionary defines sipping as: "process of drinking carbonated grape juice and liquid codeine mixed usually while smoking marijuana." It is obviously not a case of slang.  Vinny Cha$e implies that he's drinking so much vodka that it's like sipping it - a constant drinking process.  And the word "sippin" is for sure much more club-cool than drinking. One could not rap to "shooting vodka." It just doesn't sound right.

My quest continued.  Should vodka be taken in shots as I believe or should it be sipped?
From a logical point of view it should be drunk in shots.  Its main characteristic is purity and freshness of taste.  There is no benefit in sipping it.  Vodka is served from the freezer. The drinker is not trying to showcase or taste any subtle flavors.  If that was the case vodka would be served at room temperature.

But besides my experience in Latvia and general knowledge I searched the internet for more validation.
Esquire contains an article that is a bit oxymoronic: the title mentions that vodka should be "sipped with food" but later on it mentions that vodka should be "drunk in little chilled shots alongside little plates." That makes more sense.  Esquire is talking about zakuskis. These are Russian hors d'oeuvres served before a meal.  

I did go on to research the web a bit more and found plenty more evidence of Russian origin to support my statement that vodka should be drunk in shots.  It's important not to fill the glass to the rim and to finish the vodka in one gulp.  Vodka needs to be served chilled - the bottle kept in the freezer.  And make sure to give a toast when having vodka. 

So for this Christmas season instead of an aperitif or white wine why not pair your buffet of amuse bouche and hors d'oeuvres with shots of good quality vodka? 

Final notes:

From my vodka adventure I learned a few more things. 
YORSH: a Russian drink consisting of beer + generous amount of vodka. Don't ask me how it originated.
PICKLE JUICE: preferred Russian hangover cure.